July 10, 2005

Rocking at anchor in Tracy Arm Cove. Another gray and somewhat rainy day. That weatherman better be right about sun tomorrow. We weighed anchor around 7 am and motored north in fog. The ceiling was about 20 feet above the water and in the distance, sky merged with water as we entered Stephens Passage. After cruising a few miles I spotted a huge splash on the horizon, and then saw the flukes of a sounding whale. As we approached Twin Islands we started seeing several more whales. We got within about 200 yards of a couple as we cruised by. We had help from the wind for part of the way, and the current also gave us a push. We encountered more whales off the mouth of Hobart Bay, and again on the approach to Holkam Bay, at the mouth of Tracy Arm. We started seeing icebergs again as we got close to Holkam Bay, the product of Tracy and Endicott Arm glaciers. Upon entering, the water temperature started to plummet, down to 38 degrees. We were passed on the approach by Burnt Sands, and we saw the small cruise ship Spirit of 98 exiting the Bay as we entered. This was the same cruise ship which had anchored across from us last night. They were gone by the time we got up this morning.

After anchoring, we dinghied ashore and went for a short walk, which was made difficult by the slippery cobbles along the water’s edge. I went out and fished a bit (no luck) and also set the crab trap out (no luck so far). I was hailed by the captain of Rainshadow, the same boat which helped us out when the motor wouldn’t start. I rowed over and visited with them. They will be in Glacier Bay the day before we are scheduled there. We will likely see them up there. There are a total of 3 sail boats here, and about 5 power boats anchored as well. It should be quite a parade going up Tracy Arm tomorrow. I probably won’t get very far, based on reports of ice conditions from other captains.

Distance for the day: 37 nm; total for the trip: 1152

73 miles so far on the first tank of gas, and maybe a gallon or less left. That works out to over 6 mpg. Should have plenty for this run.

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